pedantichedgehog

joined 1 year ago
[–] pedantichedgehog@sh.itjust.works 7 points 8 months ago (1 children)

Dog tax! Here is the unrepentant culprit.

 

My dog chewed her harness. Here's the mending job. Mended with embroidery floss by hand.

No, but I cross my legs while standing so that my feet are close to perpendicular. It's comfy.

Bookmarking this!

Exactly! It's called planning ahead, get with it NT folks

Singer is one of the most popular brands so will be easiest to find parts for. Husqvarna and Brother are slightly less popular but still pretty popular. I've never heard of any other the other brands you listed. Some parts, like needles, are standardized. Others aren't.

You can't sew with two needles at once, but there is such thing as a double needle that's used for special cases. More than likely you won't need one. The second spool holder is most likely for 1) use with a double needle, 2) quickly swapping out thread colors or 3) actually a bobbin/spool winder and not actually for holding a spool you're using.

As for stitch pattern symbols, each symbol is supposed to look like the stitch it creates. I would recommend trying to find a video showing all the stitches for whatever machine you pick. If you can't find such a video, you can experiment with some scrap fabric.

[–] pedantichedgehog@sh.itjust.works 3 points 1 year ago (4 children)

So...the first thing you need to understand is that there are different types of sewing machines, as someone commented on your original post. There are:

  1. "Regular" sewing machines, which can be either mechanical or computerized. These are the type of machines virtually all hobbyists use and can handle a huge range of projects, from linen napkins to ballgowns. It's important to note that either the computer or the mechanical system determines stitch length and width.

  2. Serging machines, which cut the fabric while sewing it, and make a single specialized stitch.

  3. Embroidery machines. These are similar to "regular" sewing machines, but with a wider table and extra parts for stretching out the area you're embroidering. They also have a computer to track/calculate the stitches in a given embroidered image.

As far as I'm aware, software is only available for embroidery machines. The computers in anything less than the most expensive of home sewing machines are pretty simple, and I'm not even sure how you would access them. They don't connect to wifi, and there are no ports in the machines except for power and the foot pedal.

For the use cases you listed, I recommend a basic "regular" sewing machine such as this one. Any regular sewing machine built in the past several decades will be able to use a variety of stitches out of the box.

For repairing socks specifically, I agree with the other poster who talked about zigzag and stretch stitches.

52
Second darned sock (sh.itjust.works)
 

I've recently started darning my worn-out socks (shoutout to that one poster who posted a tutorial) and so it's going really well! My socks are still comfy, and the woven patches do the job.

 

I had a week-long staycation while relatives visited recently, and weate out several times. I gained a couple of pounds. As of this morning, I have officially lost it all and am down to 152lbs.

[–] pedantichedgehog@sh.itjust.works 3 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Do you have access to a sewing machine?

[–] pedantichedgehog@sh.itjust.works 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

I've been struggling to stay on the wagon for more than two days for the past several weeks. Weighed in this morning at 153.

I floss and brush religiously every night, have for many years. I had a cavity when I was young and the whole experience was terrible.

I still ended up with multiple cavities as an adult.

 

I started CICO, once again, mid-May at 160 pounds. Now at the end of June, I'm down to 153 lbs.

 

I'm a short person. I'm also sedentary and classified as overweight but not obese. As such, my TDEE is around 1600-1700 calories. So, to lose weight at the pace I'd like, I have to restrict myself to 1200 calories a day.

My partner is taller, fatter and has more muscle mass than me. He's talked about wanting to lose weight to get healthier, but when it comes down to it he won't do anything. Which is baffling to me, because his TDEE is high enough that he could eat waaay more than me and still lose weight.

Ugh. It's frustrating.

 

How long does it take you to get from never seeing a sheet before to playing at the recommended tempo? Just wondering what's typical.

It typically takes me several weeks at a minimum, with the caveats that I have little time for practice and am self-taught because I don't have money for a teacher.

My process is this: practice each hand independently in chunks, bring each hand up to the 'normal' tempo, then put the hands together at sloooow tempo and gradually raise the tempo. The last part takes the longest. Does anyone have suggestions for improving my process?

 

So I'm currently on my fifth or sixth attempt to lose weight. Historically, I've tracked my calorie intake for a few weeks or a few months, lost a few pounds, fallen off the wagon and gained it all back.

There are a number of things going on this month that I'm choosing to participate in that are going to have to be cheat days or cheat meals. Without disclosing too many details, my workplace is holding an event where there's going to be a lot of free food. Another one is that I'll be traveling for work for a few days and I'll be eating out since I won't have access to a kitchen.

Progress, not perfection is the mantra I've been repeating. I'm gonna want to stop counting calories on the work trip - a work trip was the hurdle that made me give on my last weight loss attempt. I'm trying to give myself some grace - it's okay if I gain some weight, because I can lose it again if I keep tracking my intake. Even if I don't limit what I eat at all on the trip and the other events, if I get back on the weight loss wagon that's still progress.

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