I made the "voronoi halloween pumpkin" off printables, thought it turned out nice:
https://www.printables.com/model/606949-voronoi-halloween-pumpkin-tealight-cover
Scaled the Z up to 115% since I thought the proportions looked better. Prusament galaxy black pla on my MK4 with organic supports on the top area.
It might just be the specific spool/brand of PETG you used. Try buying some from a major well-known manufacturer, like Overture, Polymaker, etc. I've had cheaper brands shrink, warp, have adhesion issues, and all sorts of other quirks.
Ended up moving the little 500VA UPS from my computer to the 3D printer. Hopefully it'll help for brief blips.
This model was set up for it already in the .3mf file. It stops, moves the toolhead over, automatically unloads the filament, and waits for me to yank it the rest of the way out then stick in another color. It then purges the nozzle a bit to get the main color fully flowing and asks you if it's correct before proceeding. I did this like 7 times for this stupid half-failed box lol.
Edit: Also, you can left-click the plus sign on the layer slider at any height you want after slicing in PrusaSlicer to add manual color changes in.
And the power panic resume didn't work :(. This was also my first try at manually changing filaments for multiple colors, waste of effort and filament lol.
Double-check the print temperature, PETG should be about 240-ish. Also the spiral vase mode may be the issue if your model isn't designed for it. Also check your z offset, the first layer should be almost a flawless sheet... if not, stop the print and try again while live adjusting the z until it's correct. Typically PETG doesn't like to be squished down as much as PLA.
I printed the panels using the full width of my large 300x300mm print bed. I have three of them mounted to the wall. There are several sizes available though, you can always merge more smaller ones.
It's actually just a shorter version of the tall basket model that was available. I originally meant for it to hold my alcohol bottle, but it was too small... then I discovered it fits the canned air perfectly.
Neat, good job. You might want to include what screw size it fits, and the word "anchor" somewhere in the description/title for searching (these are typically called drywall anchors in the US).
I keep adding more tool holders to this as I find the need. Still have one blank area to fill, but it's mostly there.
It's significantly faster, the higher motor resolution reduces vertical fine artifacts, and the nextruder reduces texture that could otherwise be caused by bad drive gears.
Tukkari support told me directly to do this. It barely gets warm under the dryer, so there's no real risk of it damaging the plexiglass.
After a few hickups I finished building my MK4 kit and Tukkari enclosure. The first few prints have been fantastic.
My MK4 kit had a couple bad bearings, so I replaced all the bearings and rods on the X and Y axes with MISUMI equivalents. I noticed that they have a fair bit less slop in the movement and are overall quieter.
I also made a custom G10+steel print sheet, and it's working exceptionally well with PETG. It sticks strongly while hot, and doesn't release until the bed drops below about 40 deg C at which point parts pop off easily. It leaves a super gloss surface on the first layer as well. If anyone is interested in building one, here are the parts I used:
(253.8x241mm steel sheet) https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832760691866.html
(white 250x240x1mm g10 sheet) https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255801004367032.html
I bonded them together with 3M 200MP double-stick tape (which is thin, strong, and heat-resistant) and filed notches in the g10 to match the sheet. I didn't abrade the G10, PETG sticks perfectly while glossy. I was very careful about cleaning it with iso. alcohol before printing, and I wipe it again every print or two.
The filament dryer is a Sunlu S1 Plus, which has a built-in fan to circulate air for better drying. I printed this guide and used a PC4-M10 fitting and 4mm OD teflon tube with it to reduce friction into the enclosure:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5234489
I'm quite happy with the setup. It is a little noisier in the enclosure than just on the table due to the melamine particle board panel vibrating while suspended on its plastic feet. I'll set it on foam and/or a paver eventually to improve this.
This right here. Crazy to me that people would pay for what ublock origin does for free. Especially people defending the need to shell out for the service to "support" a trillion dollar company like Google.
Dang, I need to try that. Good idea.