masto

The way I use them is to reflash the firmware with ESPHome, at which point they have nothing to do with Sonoff. I got really into these things when they came out and made a video about the process: https://youtu.be/Kdf6W_Ied4o?si=4nh7kP28IglwVHBx. There are a bunch of different ways to use them including retaining the original software, but I kind of stopped paying attention when I got mine working.

It's worth noting that they have two different products. The "NSPanel Pro" is completely different, I think it runs Android. I haven't played with that at all.

I have one Kindle Fire using the Fully Kiosk Browser and a wall mount with a hidden power cord (https://a.co/d/05GVxVP). It uses the camera to turn on when you walk up to it. It’s ok, but I installed it 3 years ago and never really finished making a dashboard for it. In practice, we control the vast majority of stuff by voice with the Google/Nest Home integration, or switches. The big control panel thing doesn’t hold enough interest to even bother putting controls on it, and I mainly leave it showing air quality graphs.

Of more practical use are smaller panels for area-specific uses. I mainly standardized on NSPanel, because I was experimenting with them and ended up with a bunch. Example: https://youtu.be/DBzg7v1Q5Zo. I have a short attention span and tend to stop when it’s 90% good enough. I also have in other places a DIY HA SwitchPlate, and HASPone on a Lanbon L8.

I suppose that's true. Rereading my comment, it's a bit over the top. If I pretend now I don't know anything and start at http://home-assistant.io, it's not that hard to scroll down, see the thing, and buy it. I don't know exactly how I got so off-track when I tried. Probably I knew "a little too much", as in the words "home assistant blue" in the back of my head, Googled for that and got distracted by "I need to understand why there are two boxes and one isn't for sale anymore, so exactly what is the difference is between them?".

Coming back to that naive journey, though, I could see how someone could end up buying Green with no wireless dongle or Yellow with no CM4 (especially since you can't get one).

I still think that for the limited size of this ecosystem, choosing a box shouldn't be confusing. I can now understand where it came from, though, once I realized that HA Yellow was designed around a Raspberry Pi board that became unobtainable, so they had to go with a different architecture.

That, but I actually get a lot out of my hobbies and personal unfinished projects (they're always a learning experience).

It's more about the cost of struggling with things and thinking I'm lazy or a failure, and the real-world consequences of not having gotten any help until my late 40s.

I have a friend who bought a new house and wanted to do some automation with the lights. While my HA is a total DIY setup, I thought maybe I’d suggest he get one of these boxes I was vaguely aware they sell. I went to the web site and first of all couldn’t find them from home-assistant.io (I see they’re on the front page at least now, but I swear it was harder to find when I looked the other day). Then I got lost trying to understand what the actual box was.. yellow, blue, some third party odroid thing? Didn’t matter, everything was out of stock anyway. Now there’s a green one. I’m not sure this is actually making it easier to get started. I’m somewhat of an expert and I gave up.

I have ADHD.

Not at all. This is not a moral judgement about anyone else. Just answering the question.

I guess I've reached a point in my life where I can easily afford to buy something if I want it, especially in the price range of a video game or book. I used to do all that stuff, not to get back at the man, but because it was the only option that was accessible. Eventually the hassle factor of piracy kept going up while just paying for it became an accessible choice.

I guess I didn’t understand what you were describing. When we moved in to our house, the previous owners had a deadbolt that locked with a key on the inside instead of a thumb turn, and it was the only way to lock the door. This is a pretty bad idea since it creates a potential situation where you’re stuck inside your house, or have to find another exit. In some emergencies, seconds count. Even if you know how to open the door, you might have someone over who doesn’t, which is why fire codes are the way they are. Someone unfamiliar with the setup, panicking, in the dark, in a room full of smoke, needs to be able to escape without solving a puzzle.

Because I already had experience with having to replace that lock with an appropriate one for an exit door, I jumped straight to the assumption that when you said “lock on both sides”, you were talking about a key, and not just a childproof latch of some kind. I have the privilege of not living with anyone who is a flight risk, so it’s easy for me to just dismiss it as unsafe. I looked at some of the solutions out there and they seem to be designed to stop toddlers with no dexterity, not an autistic person determined to turn all the things. Sorry if my answer was unhelpful; people are injured or killed every day because they created a situation they didn’t realize was hazardous until it was too late. My intention was only to prevent the downsides of locking the door this way from being overlooked.

Not being able to exit your home in an emergency without a key is a serious safety problem. In most places it is not permitted.

International Residential Code R311.4.4 “All egress doors shall be readily openable from the side from which egress is to be made without the use of a key or special knowledge or effort”. Most local codes are derived from this.

Cutting a pipe and adding a valve is a really simple thing and should only be expensive to the extent that any plumbing job is expensive.

I would specifically ask for a quality 1/4 turn ball valve - there’s no point in cheaping out on that part when you’re mostly paying for labor. And as long as you’re doing that, you probably want two of them. For the same reason the city doesn’t want you touching theirs, you should have a shutoff that you actually use when you need to do plumbing work in the house, and one before that that you never touch unless it’s an emergency and you can’t shut off the other one.

For a bit more expense, you could consider an automatic shutoff leak detector. I have one called Phyn that keeps track of water usage, tests for pressure drops every night, and detects unusual flow patterns and can automatically shut it off.

Nah, you're good.

Risky or Not?

Each short episode discusses one amusingly named food or situation (e.g. “ Unopened Carton of Heavy Cream Almost 3 Weeks Past It's Expiration Date”). Hosted by two food safety experts with good banter.