corroded

I've been going through my system logs and working on resolving the miscellaneous errors; mostly it's just due to poorly-written automations where the automation would be called while it was still running. Easy fix.

What I can't seem to fix is a constant stream of "Unknown cluster command" errors on cluster 0xef00 coming from ZHA. I've discovered that the 0xef00 cluster is a manufacturer-specific cluster. All of my errors come from Tuya mmWave sensors; apparently Tuya uses this cluster for inter-device communication.

All of my devices work, but this error is polluting the logs to a large degree; right now it's showing over 100k instances of this error. Is there a way to have HA just ignore this cluster completely? It's not causing any issues with functionality, but I would rather the logs just show actual errors so I can more easily identify problems and fix them.

I've read that Z2MQTT doesn't have this issue, but swapping from ZHA to Z2MQTT is not an option for me, especially for what amounts to a logging issue. It would require re-pairing almost 100 Zigbee devices and modifying nearly every single automation.

I upgraded the head unit in my car recently. The head unit itself runs Android, and it supports Android Auto. So far, I've been using Android Auto via bluetooth, and it works great. I have no complaints.

I started using Android Auto just because it seemed logical, but I'm not understanding exactly what the benefits are. Since the head unit runs Android, couldn't I just install the apps I need on the head unit itself and just tether my phone for internet access? It also supports a 5G connection, so if I installed a SIM card, I don't think I'd need my phone at all. To be honest, I'm leading toward that; it just seems easier and a lot more straightforward.

I have no complaints about Android Auto, I just don't really see what it brings to the table other than a layer of abstraction over the head unit's native interface. It might be worth mentioning that the only thing I do in my car is streaming music and navigation.

What features am I missing? Surely there is a compelling reason for Android Auto to exist.

I'm using a variety of PIR motion sensors and mmWave presence sensors; most work fairly well, with a few exceptions. At this point, I have all the lights in my house automated, but with one exception: the master bedroom. I'd like to automate my bedroom lights so that they turn on when someone enters the bedroom unless someone else is already in bed sleeping. So far, none of the sensors I've used are precise or reliable enough to do this. I've thought about using the status of our phones (charging/not charging), but my girlfriend doesn't always plug in her phone when she's asleep. Scheduling won't work, since we both sleep at random times when we're off work, sometimes during the day. Maybe a pressure sensor under the mattress?

Aquara makes a device that's advertised as being able to detect multiple people as well as sleeping people. This would be perfect if it worked, but Aquara devices seem to be the ones that always cause me the most problems.

Any suggestions?

I've found that when I'm logged into Youtube, the algorithm works fairly well to suggest videos that are at least somewhat related to my interests. I'm specifically curious about how the "default" algorithm works when not logged in.

If I open a private window and look at the front page, it almost feels like the algorithm is doing its best to show me the opposite of what I want to see. Obviously this isn't true, but I just don't get how it chooses the videos it shows. As an example, I almost always get:

• Right-wing news clips (I'm not a Republican)
• Sports (I don't watch or play sports)
• Gaming streams (I've not once watched a gaming stream)
• Christian content (I am not a Christian)
• Gen-Z and Gen-Y entertainment (I'm almost 40)

I feel like some of this is geographic. My router load-balances between two internet connections, and I can sometimes tell if it's using my "local" connection or my satellite connection (with an endpoint in another state) based on what videos it shows. Regardless, though, the content I see isn't really appropriate for the demographic in either location. Out of curiosity, I tried it with a VPN using an endpoint in Canada (I'm in the USA); the front page was mostly really crappy reality TV content (think stuff on TLC).

If I was programming the algorithm, I'd want to have it show content that applies to a broad audience, but that really doesn't seem to be the case. While I don't intend on ever using Youtube without being logged in (and having a ton of browser plugins active to improve the experience), from a technical standpoint, I'm very curious how it chooses what to put on the front page.

I have a rainwater collection system that feeds into several water tanks. I'd like to be able to monitor the tank levels for a variety of reasons, first and foremost because of the fact that we get almost no rain in the summer, and I have run the tanks to empty before.

In the past, I have used Milone eTape connected to an Atmel microcontroller to monitor water levels for a few different applications. I'd like to use this again if possible.

The eTape essentially acts as a potentiometer in a circuit. I've done some research on various ways to feed this into HomeAssistant, but I'm not really sure what's best. My water tanks are just behind the wall from my HA server, so I could connect directly with USB, serial, or ethernet. WiFi or Zigbee or also options; nearly every other device I have connected to HA is Zigbee.

What I'm ideally looking for is a device that can take a voltage level between 0-5VDC, or a 5k potentiometer, and feed the result into HA. Building something isn't out of the question (as long as I can program it in C or C++), but an off-the-shelf solution that integrates with HA would be ideal.

I recently found a box in storage that contains about 10 Philips Hue bulbs; I had completely forgotten that I used them in the past. At the time, I had them paired to a Hue bridge. The newest is probably at least 6 years old, maybe a bit more.

I now have a Zigbee network with HA, and so I figure I might as well use the bulbs; they all still work. I can't figure out how to reset them so I can pair them to my Zigbee controller, though. Every article I read assumes that they're already connected to a bridge, to Amazon Alexa, I have a Hue dimmer controller, or something of the sort.

Is my only option to sign up for a Hue account, set up my old bridge, and reset them through the Hue app? Surely there must be some other way. I found a thread on [that other site that isn't Lemmy] that gives a routine of switching power on/off to cause a factory reset, but it doesn't work after several tries.

UPDATE: I was never able to find a method that worked without using my old Hue bridge. I ended up connecting the bridge and manually deleting each bulb. I few I had to add and delete again, but after about an hour of work, I was able to pair them all with HA.

I installed 6 Sonoff SN-ZB03 motion sensors this morning, and I'm getting so many false positives that they're essentially useless. I could understand having one that's bad, but 6?

Three of them seem to randomly trigger for no reason at all. One triggers any time the heater comes on, regardless of where I place it. The last two usually work but still give random false positives.

From what I'm reading, there are a lot of complaints about these. I probably should have done some research before I bought them. I can't shake the feeling that I'm doing something wrong. Is ITEAD really selling a motion sensor that just doesn't work properly?

I don't see any commands listed under "Manage Zigbee Device" that allow for a sensitivity change, and I can't find a datasheet or a manual for these other than the basic "quick start" guide. As far as I can tell, there's no firmware update available, either.

Am I stuck replacing all of these? If so, any suggestions on better ones? I've read good reviews of the Hue motion sensors, but they're not cheap.

EDIT: I've had some time to experiment with these a bit more. They can be made to work, but only in very specific circumstances. The ones I had outside would trigger constantly, as would the one I had in a room with a heater. They also seem to interfere with each other if they're too close to each other. I placed one in an attic area, and one in the stairs leading up; these are working flawlessly. So if you need a motion sensor for an indoor area that isn't climate controlled, doesn't have another sensor nearby, and doesn't have frequent lighting changes, these might work. Maybe for a closet? I won't be throwing these away, but there won't be a lot of cases where I use them.

Based on a number of excellent suggestions I got in previous thread, I have decided to convert all my smart home devices over to ZigBee. I have about 50 switches and sensors on-order at the moment.

One thing I can't seem to find is a controller for my pellet stove. My stove is installed in my workshop, and during the winter, I usually have to run out to the shop in the morning, turn the stove on, then wait for a hour or two for it to warm up.

I'm thinking that I'll most likely need to build a controller for the stove. I had some issues with the mainboard in the stove last year, so I'm fairly familiar with how it works. There area few sensors and relays.

• An on/off sensor for the lid.
• A safety sensor for the hopper (makes sure flames aren't feeding back into the hopper).
• A pressure sensor to detect if the door is open.
• An external temperature probe.
• An internal temperature probe.
• A relay for the igniter.
• A relay for the motor that rotates the hopper.
• A relay for the induction fan.
• A relay for the fan that blows warm air out from the stove.
• A potentiometer that switches the stove on and controls the temperature set point.

I have built a number of custom PCBs in the past, and I'm confident that I could build a replacement for the mainboard that includes a ZigBee radio. This requires a significant amount of design work for the PCB, programming for the microcontroller, etc. I'm also just now learning about how the ZigBee protocol works, so there would be a fair amount of research involved.

My other idea was to build a PCB that essentially acts as a programmable potentiometer, replace the pellet stove's pot with this PCB, and leave the mainboard as-is.

Has anyone here tried integrating a pellet stove into your home automation? How did you do it?

UPDATE: This was actually very easy. The potentiometer that controls my stove acts as a voltage divider. At 5V, it signals the stove to shut off, and at 0V, it's fully on. I just leave the potentiometer in the "off" position, and I added a zigbee relay in normally-closed mode in series with the wire feeding from the center. When the relay is "off," the stove sees 5V and does its normal shutdown routine. With the relay "on," the stove starts up. HA switches it based on temperature from a temperature sensor in the room. Depending on your stove, you might need a pull-down resistor (if it expects GND instead of an open), but it works perfectly for me.

I do not have children, and I never will, yet my property taxes still go toward paying for schools. I'm happy to have my taxes pay for roads, infastructure improvement, fire, police, and all the other municipal services that benefit me as a resident of the county.

The government needs to determine the cost of educating a child from kindergarten to high school, divide this by 18, and apply it as a yearly tax to parents. Children deserve an education, but children also put an additional strain on society. I should not be forced to pay for someone else's decision to procreate.

I have tried Home Assistant several times. Each time I try it, I get it installed on a VM under my Proxmox hypervisor and start configuring my devices. I'll use my most recent try as an example. I have several Wyze WiFi power switches, and two "Smart Life" (Toya internally) combination thermometer/switch devices. The Toya devices integrated with HA after I signed up for a Toya developer account and did a bunch of configuring. I was able to read the temperature values, but switching the devices on/off did absolutely nothing. I didn't even try the Wyze devices; apparently Wyze doesn't integrate with HA.

I'm not opposed to buying new "smart home" devices, but I want something that actually works properly. What I'm looking for are:

• Devices that don't require internet access and an external API; I want to control them directly over my LAN.
• Devices that have built-in integration with HA.

Is there a list of devices that just "work" with HA? I've looked at the list of available integrations that "technically" work, but they often require signing up for API access with a 3rd-party company and jumping through hoops to get the devices working. I want something where I can assign it a static IP or DHCP lease and HA just talks to it. I was able to get my BlueIris DVR integration working, and it can double as a motion sensor, so I'm specifically looking for plug-in switches, thermometers, sensors, etc.

I have the settings on my Jellyfin server mostly dialed-in, but one of the only problems I have left to fix is HDR and subtitle transcoding. My server transcodes HDR10 and DV with no problem, but often times the client devices don't properly report their HDR capabilites. My Android TV box and my phone can't play DV, but it tries to direct-stream Dv anyway. My desktop PC can't display HDR at all, but it still tries to direct-stream HDR content. Subtitles don't always work on my phone unless they're burned-in.

There's an option to force HDR transcoding on the Windows client, but not for Android. Workarounds like lowering the bitrate to below the source bitrate or activating burned-in subtitles work, but I don't want to lower the bitrate, and I don't always want subtitles.

What I'm looking for is an option on the server to force transcoding to h264/SDR and burn in subtitles regardless of client. An option to disable direct play and force transcoding for every stream would be perfect.

So far, I can't find any way to do this on the server. Is there any way to to disable direct play or at least force transcoding based on source content and not client capabilities?

I'm having a very strange issue with the Jellyfin app for Android (using a Samsung Galaxy S23). Any time I have the player set to the built-in web player, the video will freeze every second or so, then pick up in a few seconds. While it's "frozen," tapping on the screen to bring up the scrollbar will start it playing again. So the video plays fine as long as I keep tapping on the screen every second or so; obviously this won't work. It's not a bandwidth issue; it happens even when I drop the bitrate to 360p.

If I open a web browser and log into Jellyfin on the same device, it plays perfectly. It's only when I use the web player built-in to the app.

I tried using the built-in ExosPlayer, and it gives me a blank screen when I'm transcoding HDR->SDR with tone mapping. Using an external player (VLC) works, but it doesn't transcode at all; it just direct streams everything, which is no good when I need to play Dolby Vision content or drop the bitrate to stream over my internet connection.

I can certainly just use Jellyfin through a web browser, but it would be nice to be able to get the app working.