3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
Do not create links to reddit
If you see an issue please flag it
No guns
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
Hi
A couple of days ago the hotend wouldn't heat up and i got a couple of errorcodes/warnings in the display. The bed heats up just fine, so i ordered a new hotend parts (heater, thermistor and a new aluminum block). Changed all of this, but still the same error. I can se that the thermistor works because it changes values in the display when touching the thermistor-end. Any good ideas why the heater doesn't heat?
SKR MINI V3 and a Rasperry Pi 4 (for Klipper) is ordered and in the mail..
Shit, what have i done. Haha
You've added another notch to you nerd belt!
That's the exact setup I've got. Let me know if you have any questions or issues getting things set up. Once you have it figured out you'll wonder why anyone uses marlin.. there's just so much available. With marlin, literally everything is baked directly into the firmware, and unless you compiled it yourself or dug through the code you've got no idea what's going on with the printer. Set up a retraction tower? Better hope it was set up right because marlin won't tell you current retract settings. Leveled your bed? Better hope that the numbers stick and the mesh is actually applied to prints.
With Klipper, not only is all of that easily configurable by editing a text file, all of that information is available directly in the GUI. Want your printer to do something else at the start of every print? Just change your start up macro. Realize that you set the wrong retract distance in your slicer? Just change the setting in the GUI. Start a print job with 5 models and one of them starts to fail? Don't cancel the whole print, just the part that's failing.
These are just off the top of my head improvements and there's literally dozens if not hundreds more. What have you done? You've elevated.
I only have questions.
First things first, i probably should get control on the cables and their markings before i take out the old mainboard.
I'll start this adventure as soon as the parts arrive. Parts are still in the mail somewhere..
Thanks for offering to help me out here.