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As a former auto body shop owner, green is more expensive and harder to match color wise. It always sits between a yellow or a blue base as far as mixing the actual paints from a paint system.
It is not too hard to get blue or yellow bases painfully close to their respective counterpart, but never get it right enough to use in practice. Green ages kinda funny too.
I've worked with 3 mixing systems. There are always lots of very specific blue's to work with. There are not a lot of yellows, but most base black is just a super dark yellow and several metallic silvers lean into the yellow side already. There are not very many greens to tint with in a mixing system. The only color that is worse than green is orange.
Why does it matter. If the factory is not painting everything at once, they have to color match across very large batches or the fenders, bumpers, mirrors, door handles, etc. won't match close enough... Now look at the image and you will see why many elements are black trim colored.
It also means, if you ever need to repair a green car, it will cost a lot more. The painter will have to work across a much larger area to blend the color match. Basically, add an extra large panel on all sides of the repair to achieve the same quality as something like a white car.
Every color has its quirks, but I stay away from green and orange.
You would have loved my metallic orange Honda Fit then.
Not that it matters, but actually metallics don't mix with reds. The hard part about orange is getting red to weaken into more of a yellow while retaining vibrance. When you start adding whites, the color goes tan. Typically reds act more like dyes too. I think that is why they don't mix with the texture of metallics the coarseness of the metallic particles causes then to sit too high in the red and this makes them show through as little dirty silver specs.
Pretty much all vibrant colors are made using pearl additives, they are much smaller in size. Some mixing systems sell them as liquids that are already with a clear binder, but I mostly used dry powders. They all look pretty close to white until they get wet with the other colors. Once wet, they really pop. Some of them need an additional layer too. Like, paint the surface a solid color, then spray a clear binder mixed with pearl, then do the 2 part urethane clear coat. That last type is the most expensive, most vibrant, and hardest to repair. IIRC that orange on the Fit was a 2-tone pearl. Scion had a few like this with a lime green and orange at one point, the bright red from the Mazda 3 was also a 2 part. All of those had no metallics in their paint, all the sparkley bits were pearls.
But yeah, that Fit would have been worse than a nightmare if I saw it roll into my shop. There is a good chance I'd have to buy the unique pearl just to mix that paint at like ~$300 for a bottle.