3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
-
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
-
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
-
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
-
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
-
Do not create links to reddit
-
If you see an issue please flag it
-
No guns
-
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
view the rest of the comments
what software are you using? this question is highly dependent on the software you use.
In F360, the most useful way is using the coil tool. Here's a good video showing different ways. to do it. the thread tool is probably the only reliable way if you're mating to an un-printed part. (as in the video, mating to a faucet,). But for 3d printing both the internal and external thread (what you're saying,) the coil tool will let you create stronger threads- you want beefy threads with plenty of surface area.
I would suggest a triangular pitch cross section (and put a chamfer on the peak, it'll just break anyhow. this will make screwing it a bit easier, too.), and I would highly recomend printing some kind of pin-test to see where your printer is in terms of tolerance. I just created a bunch small pins- 10mm diameter cylinders, 15 in height, and a slot cut into the top.
the first collar/pin has a gap of .1mm, increasing by .1 to .5, or more. but .5 is going to be very sloppy.
I would also suggest designing the part to be printed with the screw aligned vertically. That way you only print an overhang for the thread, instead of a bridge. You might have to plan on supports for the main body of whatever your designing, though. Another option is to design a cap nut on one side and print them separately... but it's going to be basically impossible for you to remove support from the thread and the internal thread needs some kind of support or it gets very crunchy very quick.
Here is an alternative Piped link(s):
different ways.
Piped is a privacy-respecting open-source alternative frontend to YouTube.
I'm open-source; check me out at GitHub.