xzot746

joined 1 year ago
[–] xzot746@sh.itjust.works 2 points 5 days ago (1 children)

I agree on the podcast front, and what makes it worse it's for their own podcasts which aren't generating them any revenue so why have 5 minutes of ads 3 x per show for your own stuff. Not unless the other podcasts generate revenue through ads, but I doubt it, just getting you used to it for when it becomes a Black Mirror episode and you must watch your ads as prescribed by the government (aka business).

[–] xzot746@sh.itjust.works 1 points 3 months ago

Well that was the problem, thanks for everyone's input.

[–] xzot746@sh.itjust.works 2 points 3 months ago (1 children)

So I sliced and printed a different model, and then rotated 1 by 180°, it is somewhat weird as the lowest part on the right model seems ok but as the wall built up on the inside it was getting the artifacts. The model on the left was getting the artifacts on the outer piece but not the inner.

In rotating the models after, the artifacts are on the opposite side.

I noticed it was starting at the seam, I have the scarf joint on contour, and noticed that "scarf around entire wall" was checked so trying reprinting to see if that is the issue.

[–] xzot746@sh.itjust.works 1 points 3 months ago (3 children)

Good point, I have mainly been printing these items for the hydroponic tower. I do have other versions that I can check. I think after this set prints I will add some basic shapes in different orientations to see if there is issues still.

That being said I did print some other items that were stacked and each one is much thinner but there are no artifacts on the outer walls.

[–] xzot746@sh.itjust.works 1 points 3 months ago

I re-lubed the rods before starting another set and still having the issue. I was thinking it had something to do with the Bowden tube but even at the back where the tube doesn't move much the issue still happens.

Is there a specific lube that is better than others?

[–] xzot746@sh.itjust.works 2 points 3 months ago (5 children)

Thanks for your reply, to your point yes they still fit, been having this issues for a bit now as I'm up to about 40 of these netcups and the associated other pieces for the grow towers.

I think the belts are good, but will double check.

 

I have a K1 Max and mostly it is running great, however I get strange artifacts on mostly only the front side of curved objects.

I have lubed all the rods, and I have a Capricorn PTFE tube from the filament sensor to the hot end. I tried the printable guide for the tube to go into the hot end but it wasn't any better and I thought that was the culprit at first.

I have an extension piece to raise up the top glass.

I'm using Elegoo Rapid PTEG running at 240c and 250mm outerwall speed. This is mainly happening on the front side and anywhere on the build plate. Filament is dry and fed out of the Creality Space dryer.

These items are small netcups but it was also happening on the larger sections that they go in.

Using Orcaslicer and Arachne wall generator.

Any ideas where I need to be focusing my attention on?

[–] xzot746@sh.itjust.works 4 points 3 months ago

Easy there pussies can be useful, unlike that shitheel.

[–] xzot746@sh.itjust.works 2 points 10 months ago

Almost forgot, Teaching Tech has a great calibration web site and YouTube channel.

[–] xzot746@sh.itjust.works 4 points 10 months ago (2 children)

My first suggestion if you have a Raspberry Pi Zero 2w or better is to install Klipper. If that isn't a route to go down for you then Myers firmware was really good (not sure if it's still around since I went to Klipper).

I've printed so many miss for mine, spool holder moves to the side, filament guides, different spool holders with bearings, new hot end fan assemblies ,small tool holder that slides into the v slots. Covers for the V slots.

It's a great machine to learn and tinker on, some people don't like that but I really enjoyed it.

I've since switched to direct drive instead of the Bowden tube and added another Z rod and stepper. I have a microswiss all metal hotend which has been fantastic and I have put Noctua fans for the heat break. Also upgrade the Bowden tube to the Capricorn type, it is much better.

A magnetic build plate from Biqu was another good addition.

Almost forgot, I printed risers for the feet out if TPU and that seems to help, I probably would have tried the ones that the squash balls go into but these work fine. In order to print TPU with the Bowden tube you need to print slow.

Also keep an eye on the plastic handle on the filament extruder, they are known to be weak and crack, a good aluminum dual gear is a good low cost investment.

Search on Thingiverse and Printables for mods for the Ender 3 and you will be overwhelmed with your options.

Patience is a virtue, and remember there are no stupid questions and a huge community of people willing to help.

If there is anything else I can do to help, don't hesitate to ask.

[–] xzot746@sh.itjust.works 1 points 10 months ago

That sounds like an interesting plan, my E stepper driver was what acted up on my 4.2.2, it seems to be working now, but I'd like to see your config in case I need to go in that direction.

[–] xzot746@sh.itjust.works 1 points 10 months ago

Update:

I took everyone's advice and tried all the suggestions. In the end I completely disassembled the printer and made sure everything was square or perpendicular where it needed to be. I think maybe the dual z screws were binding, although when I took everything apart I noticed that I did not use the Y cable for both z steppers, I ran the original short cable to one motor and

the Y to another, not sure if that had any effect or not, but now the Y cable is running both z steppers.

It does seem to be better, but I still have the dip in the bed, which is still a bit of an issue for the BL Touch, but not nearly as bad as before. I may have slightly bowed it when trying to crank down the levelling wheels.

I think that the z screws were binding just enough that it couldn't keep up with the micro adjustments, I guess time will tell.

Thanks for everyone's input and advice, hopefully it'll run for a couple more years. If not then a replacement Bamboo might be in order.

Now I just need my resin printers to stop failing prints, but I think that's more me than the printers. lol

Thanks everyone.

[–] xzot746@sh.itjust.works 1 points 10 months ago

It could be that I am cranking down on the wheels too much. Thought that maybe they were loosening off so tried to tighten them. I'll keep that in mind when I reassemble the unit.

Thanks.

 

I've had an Ender 3 v2 for a few years now and have had mostly no issues. I've upgraded the hot end to a microswiss direct drive and a dual z setup (twin z steppers on a shared cable).

Recently started having issues with the 4.2.2 board and replaced it with a BTT mini SKR 3 v3.

Since I've put the new board in, I am having troubles getting the bed to level and stay level.

The height profile of the bed is now showing a dip in the centre (which was not there before). When I run a print it seems to be overcompensating for the dip. If I level the bed with the corner screws and don't use the bed mesh then it prints fairly good, but after a few prints the bed goes out of level again.

I can't seem to make any adjustments that help the issue. Yesterday tightened up all the screws (silicon spacers instead of springs). Releveled the bed and had a small dip in the middle and an overall height difference of 0.170 across the bed (normal prior to this was 0.310). Sent a print with bed mesh and mostly came out good.

Went to fire up a new print today and the bed height is showing 0.830 overall difference.

I'm not sure if it is a BL touch issue (the BL touch is a v3.1 and is original with a single 5 wire connector plugged into mini SKR) dual z issue (disconnected 1 in an attempt to level and didn't see much difference, the BTT has two connectors for dual z but run off one stepper driver as I understand it, I am using the y cable for only one stepper motor, while the other motor has its own cable).

I use klipper with a RPi zero 2 w.

I just can't seem to figure out that has been causing the issue since the board swap.

Anyone have some ideas as where to point me?

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