nottelling

joined 1 year ago
[–] nottelling@lemmy.world 1 points 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) (2 children)

You don't. That's not what caddy is. Use a bastion for ssh.

Edit: link https://www.redhat.com/sysadmin/ssh-proxy-bastion-proxyjump

[–] nottelling@lemmy.world 1 points 1 month ago (1 children)

lol what a weird take. all the problems of overconsumption and ecosystem collapse aside, theres not much inherently worse about seafood than landfood.

cats arent more picky than us. they gladly eat all kinds of trash and raw dead meat. they're picky about what we feed them. The respective tolerance for "toxins" between us and cats is, again, relative to the environment we put them in and the specific set of toxins.

[–] nottelling@lemmy.world 3 points 1 month ago (3 children)

i've always assumed that whatever meat didnt pass qc for human canned tuna would just become cat food.

[–] nottelling@lemmy.world 9 points 1 month ago (1 children)

wondered why your pet might not like particular foods?

No. It's the same reason that you don't like particular perfectly good foods. They're attuned to different factors, but it's the same process to appeal to them.

[–] nottelling@lemmy.world 6 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) (5 children)

i worked at an animal hospital for a few years in my 20s (late 90s). I was also broke af punk kid living in a filthy punk rock house, barely able to afford my part of rent. So i'd bring home the pet food sometimes. It wasn't really inventoried, and it's nutrition. Do not recommend though, its a great way to get a bacterial gut infection since pet food regulations are very minimal.

it ranges. some cat food is indistinguishable from canned tuna. the science diet I/D canine prescription tastes exactly like canned corned beef hash. the cheap stuff (kibbles&bits, fancy feast, etc) tastes exactly like you'd expect: bone meal, corn starch, and ash slag. cause thats the filler trash the cheap stuff is made of.

generally though, most kibble just tastes like if you soaked grape nuts cereal in beef broth, and most wet food tastes about the same as canned horse. which is unpleasant.

[–] nottelling@lemmy.world 2 points 1 month ago

The answer to your overarching question is not "common maintenance procedures", but "change management processes"

When things change, things can break. Immutable OSes and declarative configuration notwithstanding.

OS and Configuration drift only actually matter if you've got a documented baseline. That's what your declaratives can solve. However they don't help when you're tinkering in a home server and drifting your declaratives.

I’m pretty certain every service I want to run has a docker image already, so does it matter?

This right here is the attitude that's going to undermine everything you're asking. There's nothing about containers that is inherently "safer" than running native OS packages or even building your own. Containerization is about scalability and repeatability, not availability or reliability. It's still up to you to monitor changelogs and determine exactly what is going to break when you pull the latest docker image. That's no different than a native package.

[–] nottelling@lemmy.world 1 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) (1 children)

Depends on the specific Zigbee switch, but generally yes.

The magic is in the fact that you can decouple the relay, and use the switch as a sensor that triggers things that may or may not be related to the physical switch position.

The other reason I like it better than a typical "smart switch" is that I can use the shellys with whatever switch I want, so I can have it match my dumb switches and use different colors.

[–] nottelling@lemmy.world 5 points 1 month ago (3 children)

shelly relays will do exactly what you want. just wire them as disconnected switches. i do this to simulate 3-way switches, but it'll work just as well to swap circuit behavior.

you can use a homeassistant action if you’re already using HA, or you can have the shellys call each others web api when it senses the switch.

[–] nottelling@lemmy.world -1 points 1 month ago

Just cause you've never seen them doesn't make it not true.

Try using quadlet and a .container file on current Debian stable. It doesn't work. Architecture changed, quadlet is now recommended.

Try setting device permissions in the container after updating to Debian testing. Also doesn't work the same way. Architecture changed.

Redhat hasn't ruined it yet, but Ansible should provide a pretty good idea of the potential trajectory.

[–] nottelling@lemmy.world 0 points 1 month ago (2 children)

It isn't. It's architecture changes pretty significantly with each version, which is annoying when you need it to be stable. It's also dominated by Redhat, which is a legit concern since they'll likely start paywalling capabilities eventually.

[–] nottelling@lemmy.world 2 points 1 month ago

Every complaint here is PEBKAC.

It's a legit argument that Docker has a stable architecture while podman is still evolving, but that's how software do. I haven't seen anything that isn't backward compatible, or very strongly deprecated with notice.

Complaining about selinux in 2024? Setenforce 0, audit2allow, and get on with it.

Docker doing that while selinux is enforcing is an actual bad thing that you don't want.

[–] nottelling@lemmy.world 3 points 2 months ago

I bought a 2010 brand new in 2010. Traded it in 2019 and have regretted that ever since. I've got a new 2020 now, and it's just not the same.

 

Edit: ideally wifi cameras that I can solar power.

Looking to replace my Arlo cameras with something self-hostable. Arlo lets you store on a USB stick, but there's no way to get out from under their cloud, which gets more expensive all the time.

 

When I built this rack, it was perfectly square, the saddles were all tight, and it didn't move at all. 3 months later, I guess the pressure-treated wood has shrunk and it's sagging.

So what's the right way to build something like this? Just let the lumber sit for several months to dry out? Don't buy from Home Depot? Is there a way to tell when the wood is "ready"?

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