overview for Rangelus

[Troubleshooting] Big stringing problem with flsun SR and Orcaslicer in c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

[–] Rangelus@lemmy.nz 1 points 4 months ago

Hey mate, I keep my filament in a dry cabinet at 5ish% humidity, and I've had the same results with two different filaments in there. I even chucked my filament in a food dehydrator at 40C for 12h with no effect. I'm pretty sure the filament is dry!

[Troubleshooting] Big stringing problem with flsun SR and Orcaslicer in c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

[–] Rangelus@lemmy.nz 1 points 4 months ago

Thanks for the reply mate!

I didn't think to mess with z-hop - I'll give that a go, and I'll do some testing to make sure the Bowden is seated correctly and the wipe on retract is actually happening - thanks!

The print in the image is a 'torture test', and just something I had on hand to illustrate the issue. I'm actually not fussed if there is still some stringing at the top, but other detailed prints were getting it pretty bad, including retraction towers.

0

[Troubleshooting] Big stringing problem with flsun SR and Orcaslicer (lemmy.nz)

submitted 4 months ago by Rangelus@lemmy.nz to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

5 comments fedilink

Ok guys, I'm breaking down and posting here to see if anyone has any ideas. I'm greatful for any advice.

I have an upgraded flsun SR. I recently lost my computer (psu issue, waiting for replacement) and I took this opportunity to switch from Cura to Orcaslicer.

Over-all I'm very happy, and getting some good speeds, but I just cannot remove stringing no matter what I try:

Retraction from 0-7mm. After about 3mm, no further effect
Retraction speed from 30mm/s-50mm/s. No noticable effect
Travel speed and acceleration both high (up to 350mm/s and 6000 accel. No effect
Temp from 205-215 with no effect
Dried filament and different colours, no effect
Wipe on retract on and off, up to 2mm wipe distance and 100% retraction. No effect
Messed with scarf seams on and off, no effect
No effect from layer heights

My setup:

Printer - FLSun SR running klipper with a speede pad
Filament - Esun PLA+
Upgrades - Deported fans, OMG v2 extruder, volcano hotend and high flow cht nozzle

Help with stringing after shifting to Klipper in c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

[–] Rangelus@lemmy.nz 1 points 11 months ago

Thanks. I'll try that.

Help with stringing after shifting to Klipper in c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

[–] Rangelus@lemmy.nz 2 points 11 months ago

Hmm yes, good points. I'll have another go with the previous filament.

To be fair, I need to replace the extruder and get a high flow nozzle anyway, which I think will make more difference to the flow rate than running hot.

Help with stringing after shifting to Klipper in c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

[–] Rangelus@lemmy.nz 1 points 11 months ago

What temperature are you printing at? When I was using Marlin I ran mine at about 200, and could probably have gone even lower. I also tuned linear advance which made a big difference.

I have found that some esun spools weren't particularly dry when I got them. They sit in my dehumidifier which sits at about 20%, so they get dry eventually.

You can try coasting as well I think.

Help with stringing after shifting to Klipper in c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

[–] Rangelus@lemmy.nz 1 points 11 months ago (2 children)

Yeah lower temps work, but I'm really trying to max out my flow rate so I want to run it as high as possible. Pressure advance really helps reduce ooze, and quality filament is obviously a must.

Help with stringing after shifting to Klipper in c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

[–] Rangelus@lemmy.nz 1 points 11 months ago

That site doesn't load for me. I have just been using a retraction tower and running the tuning function from the command line.

Help with stringing after shifting to Klipper in c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

[–] Rangelus@lemmy.nz 2 points 11 months ago

In the end it was crap quality filament.

I keep my spools in a dehumidifier which I actually think is too dry. Some of the filament was brittle for the first 6" or so.

Help with stringing after shifting to Klipper in c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

[–] Rangelus@lemmy.nz 1 points 11 months ago (2 children)

Yeah it was rubbish filament. Switched it out for some esun PLA+ and got much better results. I've updated my post, but final settings are:

Pressure Advance - 0.4 Retraction - 3.5mm Retraction speed - 35mm/s

Very happy with the results!

Help with stringing after shifting to Klipper in c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

[–] Rangelus@lemmy.nz 4 points 11 months ago (4 children)

Thanks for your reply, I will give that a go.

After posting I thought to try a different brand of filament. It's currently printing, so we'll see how it goes.

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Help with stringing after shifting to Klipper (lemmy.nz)

submitted 11 months ago* (last edited 11 months ago) by Rangelus@lemmy.nz to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

19 comments fedilink

Background:

I am running a mostly stock flsun Super Racer, which had been running pretty well on Marlin. I was having a few problems with print quality at high speed, and in an attempt to improve this I bought the flsun Speeder Pad, flashed it with stock klipper, and got it all up and running. So far so good.

I have been trying to get rid of an annoying stringing issue that I never really had on Marlin, and the more I try to remedy it, the worse it's getting.

The image is from my latest retraction tower test after re-calibrating pressure advance and rotation_distance. I'm really not sure where to go from here.

Settings from the above test:

Esun PLA+
220C (for maximum flow)
1000mm/s acceleration (low for a delta)
0.1mm z-hop on retract
Firmware retract control running in test tower mode, 0mm start, 0.1mm factor
Pressure advance of 0.236

Upgrades from stock:

Lighter hotend housing
Deported fans
Fan ducts

Any advice is greatly appreciate!

UPDATE: It was the filament. I grabbed a spool of grey from my drying cabinet, and only later (after much hair pulling!) realized it was the budget filament I'd bought to try. Switched it out to some good quality esun PLA+ and the stringing practically vanished! See image for final stringing test.

Final retraction settings: 3.5mm at 35mm/s.

I would like to thank everyone for their help! Lemmy is always the best place to get advice!

Scientists Invent New Glass With Supreme Toughness in c/science@kbin.social

[–] Rangelus@lemmy.nz 0 points 1 year ago

I for one welcome our new terrible carnivorous crab overlords

Scientists Invent New Glass With Supreme Toughness in c/science@kbin.social

[–] Rangelus@lemmy.nz 1 points 1 year ago (2 children)

So we finally have chainglass?

12

Can't figure out how to add new models to docker install of Automatic1111 (lemmy.nz)

submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by Rangelus@lemmy.nz to c/stable_diffusion@lemmy.dbzer0.com

29 comments fedilink

Hi guys,

I used the Docker install from here. It was easy to get Automatic1111's web interface up and running, but I'm trying to add new models and I can't figure out how to do it.

I've created a /data/StableDiffusion folder (which didn't exist), and added model files from /data/models, with no effect. I've added them to /data/models/stable-diffusion (which already exists), with no effect. Is there another location where the files are stored? Do I need to do something else to get them to work?

ETA: Discovered I was using the wrong file type (.pth) instead of the correct one (.ckpt). When I tried it with that file type it works perfectly. Thank you everyone for your quick responses and help! Y'all were way faster and more helpful than Reddit!