DarthBueller

joined 1 year ago
MODERATOR OF
[–] DarthBueller@lemmy.world 1 points 1 week ago (1 children)

Bet you a nickel that old Wii now has a toasted GPU chip and graphical artifacts. The Wi-Fi chip apparently cooks the GPU if you has Wii24 enabled.

[–] DarthBueller@lemmy.world 1 points 2 months ago (1 children)

Did screenshots taken with the method you mentioned have bloom, Like you would see from an image taken from a CRT? I associate bloom in screenshots from being directly Photographed from the CRT.

[–] DarthBueller@lemmy.world 1 points 2 months ago (3 children)

Nintendo power had tons of images taken directly from photos of CRT‘s. Some of them may have used your Method, but many of them (Especially contests) Specifically asked readers to send in photos to show whether they’ve done certain things.

[–] DarthBueller@lemmy.world 9 points 3 months ago (1 children)

I haven’t mentioned Project 2025 to my parents or my siblings because it is the culmination of everything they’ve been told they want since they voted for Reagan. It would make them vote harder. So yeah, you’re right.

[–] DarthBueller@lemmy.world 3 points 3 months ago (1 children)

The price of the console, any modern quality of life upgrades (RBG out, in game reset, etc), the price of the best flash cart and an SD card loaded with ROMs.

[–] DarthBueller@lemmy.world 1 points 4 months ago

I had an entirely different experience with Windows ME than seemingly everyone else. In my experience windows Me fixed a ton of hardware issues. I preferred it over 98 SE back in the day.

[–] DarthBueller@lemmy.world 4 points 8 months ago

I’ve got to say that the file explorer tabs are a great addition/comeback, and a vastly improved experience over the 90s incarnation where drag and drop was often hamstrung by system responsiveness (and could you even drag and drop to inactive tabs to activate them and bring them to the front back then? Don’t recall.) Using them in KDE Plasma at home , when i got a new win11laptop for work I was thrilled with many of the interface improvements. The telemetry and “widgets” are trash, though, as are the permanent ads in the windows context menu.

[–] DarthBueller@lemmy.world 1 points 9 months ago (1 children)

I try to remember to use the old paper, but usually I despose of them in a cardboard toilet paper roll with one end pinched shut.

[–] DarthBueller@lemmy.world 2 points 9 months ago (1 children)

Because the blades I get aren’t packaged this way. Is that a reusable outer package? I’ve never seen anything like that.

[–] DarthBueller@lemmy.world 4 points 9 months ago (1 children)

If you use an electric beard trimmer to cut the long stubble down first it works better. Any razor does, but especially safety razors, since there’s only one cutting blade per side and when it’s clogged with longer hairs must be fully cleaned out for a perfect shave.

[–] DarthBueller@lemmy.world 7 points 9 months ago (1 children)

As someone whose grandfather was a carpenter for Gillette in Massachusetts from after WWII until a few years before his death, I’ve got to say that while i use safety razors because of the price, I do get a far superior shave in less time with the “fuck everything it, we’re doing five blades” (basically the 3+ blades modern razors). I just don’t like having to take out a second mortgage for refills.

 

Do you wonder "what is the appropriate goop to use in this repair?" Let's talk about it. First things first:

  • petroleum based products risk degrading plastic and should not be used

  • WD-40 is a petroleum based solvent and is not a good lubricant in any situation

  • Plastic on plastic interfaces (e.g., microswitches in a joystick) can be lubricated with white lithium grease spray

  • Rosin-containing (amber colored) "no-clean" flux liquid is good for solder rework but HOLY FUCK it is hard to clean up even with IPA

  • Hot glue is NEVER THE RIGHT CHOICE. Use kapton tape to hold wires and for the love of god if you are doing a mod that adds a port through the case, use a compatible 2 part epoxy or a 3d printed bracket (or hell, a spacer made of paper) to friction fit it, because that glue is going to give way, it's just a matter of when.

Your turn - share your hard earned lessons regarding the right and wrong goops to use in different repair situations.

 

One of my favorite mods to do is restoring RGB and S-Video capabilities to the NTSC SNES Jr. (which is a cost-reduced version of the "one-chip" SNES) using voultar's mod.

What I want to know is this: why can I use a cheap-ass friction-welded Aliexpress SNES multiout RGB NTSC SCART cable (EXAMPLE ONLY, I DID NOT BUY FROM THIS PERSON) to connect my voultar mod SNES Jr. to the OSSC, and I have a PERFECT PICTURE on my HDTV, when, alternatively, I use the console5 mod with the same cable and OSSC and I have sync issues (sometimes a distorted signal, sometimes "No compatible signal" black screen from my HDTV)?

Voultar uses a better video amp than most of his competitors, mainly because with the THS7374 you can disable the LPF, while most competitors use the THS7314/7316 video amp with the LPF permanently enabled. But this should not impact sync, should it?

Someone explain why I can use stupidly cheap cables on voultars SNES RGB mod but not other's mods.

 

How long does it take for a properly working Nintendo DSi softmodded with Twilightmenu++/nds-bootstrap to load a game from the SD card? It seems to take nearly a minute to load a game for me. Everything works perfectly, it just seems to take a stupidly long time to get through the nds-bootstrap process (the first load of a game takes the longest, but subsequent loads of that game are only slightly faster).

Meanwhile I have a Nintendo DSlite with a flashcart that is wicked fast to start a game, but the power consumption of the thing in standby mode is out of control to the point that standby mode is essentially unuseable.

Is the trade-off really between stupidly long game loading times if using nds-bootstrap to start a game on the DSi but great power consumption, and wicked fast game loading but terrible battery life on a DSlite with a flashcart? Or is something wrong with my Twilightmenu++/NDS-bootstrap install?

 

!consolerepair@lemmy.world

There was no coordinated effort to relocate r/consolerepair to a lemmy community, so we're starting from scratch. The community is open to console repair questions for all generation consoles, as well as functional mods (e.g., ODE/RGB/HDMI mods). Come on over!

 

I have an NES front-loader where I fried something in the "silver box" that handles power and A/V (this NES part has no consistent name in the repair/modding community, that I can tell, so I'm calling it the front loader's "silver box").

I was using poor technique with my multimeter trying to test the voltage regulator and I think I shunted 12v to ground. I have an entirely socketed NES for chip testing and all of the IC's work fine. The issue seems entirely limited to the silver box.

Rather than try and rebuild the silver box, I was thinking of seeing what "no-cut" options are out there. TheRealPhoenix used to sell Borti's no-cut NES-IO but COVID part shortages made the PIC it relies on hard to get, and he lost interest in returning it to production as certain features it had are now unnecessary (e.g., game controller activated in-game reset and palette mod changing is now available with v4 of the Tim Worthington NESRGB mod).

Does anyone know where I can order a "silver box replacement kit" that has the following features: (1) interfaces with v4 of NESRGB, and (2) uses a mini-DIN for RGB output and also has s-video output?

I know I could locate an appropriate PCB that comes with a BOM (parts list) where I could source parts separately, but I'd rather buy a kit.

A lot of the bare PCB's that are posted online seem to require trimming a corner of the NES PCB or the internal case to make it fit, or rely on cutting a hole in the brittle NES case to install a SNES multi-out)

Givent the above info, can anyone recommend either:

  • a no-cut kit that is available for purchase, or, if none exists,
  • a straightforward PCB that requires no trimming of the hardware or the case with a BOM/parts listing that doesn't require unobtainium
 

I see folks crossposting but I don't see how to do it in my lemmy interface (lemmy.world) - I can choose a single community to post to, not multiple.

Is there a way to not have to select "english" every time I post or comment? I thought my language selection at account creation would take care of it.

 

I see people cross-posting but I don't know how they are doing it. All I see for posting options on the lemmy interface is a single community I can select.

 

I love how Adrian Black shows what the scope should look like for the C64 on power on, etc. but I have never seen anyone do the same for an NES. It would be a fascinating video. Anyone seen anything like this?

 

I am looking for a console repair community. I didn't see one when I searched "all" communities on lemmy.world. But I'm new here and didn't want to reduplicate a community that already exists perhaps under a different name?

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