Give more info about printer, filament, settings...
this post was submitted on 23 Aug 2023
16 points (100.0% liked)
3DPrinting
15538 readers
103 users here now
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
-
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
-
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
-
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
-
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
-
Do not create links to reddit
-
If you see an issue please flag it
-
No guns
-
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
founded 1 year ago
MODERATORS
General approach is:
- Dry filament
- Tune flow
- Tune retraction distance/speed
- Temp as low as possible
- Stronger part cooling
- Faster travel speed
- Smaller nozzle
It's an Ender 2 pro, ABS filament, default settings? I'm pretty new to this. Thanks for your response, I'll look into those suggestions. I am currently considering getting a filament dryer
If you are new then consider printing in PLA instead, its the easiest material to print with. After PLA, I think PETG is the most popular one, but PETG is stringing king especially if not dried. If you need higher temp resistance and some flexibility ABS is good, but not the easiest to print.
Your print looks good, its only stringing that should be fixed. So yeah, your settings are not off by a lot, dont expect crazzy changes. Calibration should fix your problem, and its not a bad idea to do a quick calibration prints when switching to new filament.
Deffo calibrate your printer if you havent already. Temp tower, flow tower, retraction test. Sometimes its enough to change flow by 1-2%, or temp by 5C, or maybe just increasing travel speed (check travel speed, it could be low at default, bump up to 150 mm/s to help with stringing).
Combing can help, but it can also be a pain especially when printing many thin walls.
Drying filament is always good, but keep in mind that some filaments are just bad with stringing. Also you are looking for optimal settings, dont mess up everything else just to remove stringing. Some level of stringing should be acceptable (its easy to remove)
My apologies, I said ABS, but I meant PLA. Thanks for the suggestions again. The calibration settings would be on the printer itself, not the software, correct?
There are some steps to do on the printer, but your print looks good enough so you can skip them.
For example, temp tower can be a hollow cube that you start printing at 210C and then decrease temp by 5 C every 10 mm of height. Dont go with too low temp to not cause a clog. Then you can inspect what height looks best and also you can try to brake it down with hands to see how good good layer adhesion is. Everything can be done in slicer. If you are using cura, there is preinstalled plugin called ChangeAtZ where you can set tenp change at specific height.
Flow calibration is simmilar, just change flow from 95% to 105% instead of temp.
Retraction test uses 2 pillars and you change retraction distance from 1-6 mm (for bowden) or 1-3 mm (for direct drive extruder). And you can see what height gives less stringing. You can also tune retraction speed.
Check links I posted before. You can download some tests or use whatever suits you
A hot air gun will fix that for you. Of course fixing it on the printer is better.
Most definitely wet filament. Get a little dryer box/food dehydrator and it'll all go away
While I do love the honeycomb aesthetic, this geometry is highly susceptible to stringing.
You could achieve similar material usage printing a solid outer shell with very low % infill. Easiest way to achieve zero stringing in cases like this using any condition of filament.
So basically just delete the honeycomb then? lol
Yeah, avoid problems wherever you can, best in early phase of modeling
Make sure your filament is dry (new spool doesn’t mean dry) are you Bowden or direct extruder? Lower temp, work on your retraction.
Bowden, and thank you for the suggestions
Once the filament is wet can you still save it by drying it out? With this work with tpu too?
Dealt with this recently with a weirdly oozy filament. The fix for me ended up being more retraction AND pressure advance in klipper.