this post was submitted on 26 Aug 2024
10 points (100.0% liked)

3DPrinting

15587 readers
245 users here now

3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.

The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io

There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml

Rules

If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)

Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible

founded 1 year ago
MODERATORS
andypiper@lemmy.world
j4k3@lemmy.world
henry_rowengartner@lemmy.world
GrayBackgroundMusic@lemm.ee
10
Biqu B1 SKR V1.4 mainboard to SKR MINI E3 V3? (sh.itjust.works)
submitted 2 months ago by UncleStewart@sh.itjust.works to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world
10 comments fedilink hide all child comments
 

Has anyone here changed the Biqu B1 SKR v1.4 mainboard to SKR MINI E3 V3?

you are viewing a single comment's thread
view the rest of the comments
[–] B0rax@feddit.org 2 points 2 months ago (1 children)

Glad to be of help!

The FAN1 in this case can not be controlled by software. It will always be on as soon as the printer is powered.

[–] UncleStewart@sh.itjust.works 1 points 2 months ago (1 children)

Here comes the fun part.
The Biqu B1 has all it's wires to the hotend via a USB-C cable. All wires from the motherboard goes to a card in the back of the printer, and fom there is a USB-C to a card in the hotend. This card splits up to TH0, CNCFAN, CNCAN1, FAN2 and HE0. Even power to the nozzle heater goes in the USB-C.

On the old SKR v1.4, the wire labeled DCIN were connected to FAN1 (GND - 12/24v), and FAN0 were connected to FAN0 (2.3 - 12/24v).
On the new SKR MINI V3 the DCIN wire is connected to FAN1 (12/24v - PC7), and FAN0 wire to FAN0 (12/24v - PC6).
The wire DCIN is not from PSU, but gives power to the card in the hotend.

In the printer.cfg all of fan-stuff are commented out, and the only thing is:

[fan_generic hotend_fan] #use for testing of hotend fan pin: PC7
pin: PC7

[fan] #part fan pin: PC6
Pin: PC6

This gives me sliders in Klipper for PC6 and PC7, and I can set FAN1 to 100%.

This should in (my) theory give power to the card in the hotend. But when i slide FAN0 in Klipper nothing happens with the fans.

When i disconnect the wires to the nozzle heater from the motherboard i now have about 24 volts on those wires, and this happens without heating the heater.

The reason for me starting this project was that one day i just got error message when heating the nozzle. First i bought a new heater, thermistor and the block they are mounted in. This did not help. So, now the motherboard is replaced and I've added a Raspberry PI with Klipper to the setup, and still no joy.

[–] B0rax@feddit.org 2 points 2 months ago

Ok, let's look into it. (you can also send me your printer.cfg if you want) The Mini e3 v3 has the following switchable outputs:

  • HB - PC9
  • E0 - PC8
  • FAN0 - PC6
  • FAN1 - PC7
  • FAN2 - PB15

Keep in mind that they all switch ground only. 24V is always there.

You can use all of them for whatever you want, Klipper is very flexible here. HB is your heated bed, no questions here. E0 should be connected to your Hotted board HE0. I don't know which of the fans on your board does what, you may need to connect them all and see which one does what (I guess your hotend does not have 3 fans). in the end you want [hotend_fan] to be the one calling the hotend (not the part!). the [fan] will be controlled by the slicer (overhangs, bridges and so on).

DCIN on your board should ideally be connected directly to the PSU, you do not want it to be switched.

don't worry, we will get you back printing.