3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
Do not create links to reddit
If you see an issue please flag it
No guns
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
(for various reasons I needed to join a mismatched pair of 18v drill and battery, annoyed at how much fun it was)
@Mwallerby Let the mutants rise! I My entire suite of old ni-cad PC tools run like a charm on DW batteries.
Be careful... IIRC, DeWalt batteries actually rely on circuitry in the tools, and it's possible for an old tool to over-discharge them and reduce their capacity pretty drastically. Specifically, it seems the "low voltage cutoff" lives in the tool for DeWalt (and Makita and Milwaukee I think), while Ridgid, Ryobi, and B&D have it in the battery. The two former are for backwards compatibility, and I think the latter because god knows what stupid garbage tools they'll throw at the line next (though my B&D sander is... fine).
Yes, that's the point. With an adapter the user must perform the low-volt-detection manually.