fhein

joined 1 year ago
[–] fhein@lemmy.world 3 points 4 days ago

It's a functional programming language, so you have to think quite differently when using it if you're used to imperative programming languages (e.g. C++, Java, Python, Basic). I learned it at uni and it was quite fun, but I wouldn't know how to write a larger project in it.

[–] fhein@lemmy.world 6 points 4 days ago (3 children)

Nikki and the Robots, it's written in Haskell

[–] fhein@lemmy.world 4 points 4 days ago

I initially wrote 100, but when starting to look through my Steam library I realized how few games had that few reviews. All the indie games I thought might be borderline unknown turned out to have 5k+ reviews.

 

Any games with less than 1000 total Steam reviews you've enjoyed and thought more people ought to know about? Not a hard limit, just a guideline for what could be classified as "undiscovered" on Steam, assuming it wasn't released yesterday.

I would recommend:

  • Full Bore, a cute block-based puzzle platformer. Solid mechanics, level designs and even a somewhat engaging story. ~~Unfortunately hasn't been on a sale since 2021 according to steampricehistory.com, while it was frequently reduced to €2-3 before that. Not sure I'd recommend it to everybody at full price, but IMO it's one of the best indie platformers I've played.~~ edit: Did someone email the creator of Full Bore or something? It's suddenly on sale again, for the first time in ages :) Go buy it!
[–] fhein@lemmy.world 2 points 1 week ago

I use https://www.criticker.com/ for movies because it has a really nice recommendation algorithm based on your personal scores. They also have a section for rating games but I haven't tried that part

[–] fhein@lemmy.world 11 points 2 weeks ago

It ought to be mandatory to write this out whenever talking about Linux. I've seen more than one person bash Linux in a public forum "because it has digital rights management built into the kernel" after they've misinterpreted some news headline.

[–] fhein@lemmy.world 1 points 2 weeks ago

If someone is careless, they should create a wrapper around rm, or just use a FM.

I think that's the situation OP is in.. They don't trust themself with these kinds of commands, while other commenters here are trying to convince them that they should just use rm -rf anyway

[–] fhein@lemmy.world 8 points 3 weeks ago (7 children)

Maybe they're afraid of accidentally writing rm -rf folder/.git /* or something

[–] fhein@lemmy.world 12 points 3 weeks ago (3 children)

Did you try running xev and pressing the key to see if it shows up as something?

[–] fhein@lemmy.world 0 points 3 weeks ago

Everyone’s entitled to an opinion… Unless you have an opinion about someone else's opinion, then you're literally Hitler ~/s~

[–] fhein@lemmy.world 1 points 4 weeks ago

That output means that it did something, but I suspect there's a risk the same thing could happen in the future. I run this command every now and then in an attempt to avoid fragmentation, especially if the disk has been close to full, but I'm not entirely sure what's causing it to happen in the first place.

[–] fhein@lemmy.world 1 points 4 weeks ago

Don't know that much about how btrfs works, just had a problem with the same symptoms as OP a while ago.. Things started failing due to "no space left on device" despite df reporting several gigabytes available. Took a while to figure out what was going on but eventually found some stackoverflow/reddit post that told me to run the balance command and it worked. Just a single drive with btrfs, no raid.

[–] fhein@lemmy.world 11 points 4 weeks ago* (last edited 4 weeks ago) (11 children)

If you're using btrfs then you might need to rebalance it. I had the same problem, i.e. "no free space" while tools like df reporting that there should be available disk space, and it confused the hell out of me until I found the solution.

See manual: https://btrfs.readthedocs.io/en/latest/Balance.html

This are the commands I run every now and then, especially if my drive has been close to full and I delete a bunch of files to make more space:

sudo btrfs balance start -dusage=10 /
sudo btrfs balance start -dusage=20 /
sudo btrfs balance start -dusage=30 /

The / at the end is the path, since it's my root mount which uses btrfs. The example in the manual does 40 and 50 too, but higher numbers take longer time, even on an nvme ssd.

22
submitted 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago) by fhein@lemmy.world to c/linux_gaming@lemmy.ml
 

Only played it for an hour but it's pretty good so far, if you like this type of gameplay. Feels somewhere in between Hell Let Loose and Battlefield 1. Native Linux version.

 

I'm trying to learn more about LLMs, but I haven't found any explanation for what determines which prompt template format a model requires.

For example meta-llama's llama-2 requires this format:

...INST and <> tags, BOS and EOS tokens...

But if I instead download's TheBloke's version of llama-2 the prompt template should instead be:

SYSTEM: ...

USER: {prompt}

ASSISTANT:

I thought this would have been determined how the original training data was formatted, but afaik TheBloke only converted the llama-2 models from one format to another. Looking at the documentation for the GGML format I don't see anything related to the prompt being embedded in the model file.

Anyone who understands this stuff who could point me in the right direction?

 

Maybe I'm using the wrong terms, but what I'm wondering is if people are running services at home that they've made accessible from the internet. I.e. not open to the public, only so that they can use their own services from anywhere.

I'm paranoid a f when it comes to our home server, and even as a fairly experienced Linux user and programmer I don't trust myself when it comes to computer security. However, it would be very convenient if my wife and I could access our self-hosted services when away from home. Or perhaps even make an album public and share a link with a few friends (e.g. Nextcloud, but I haven't set that up yet).

Currently all our services run in docker containers, with separate user accounts, but I wouldn't trust that to be 100% safe. Is there some kind of idiot proof way to expose one of the services to the internet without risking the integrity of the whole server in case it somehow gets compromised?

How are the rest of you reasoning about security? Renting a VPS for anything exposed? Using some kind of VPN to connect your phones to home network? Would you trust something like Nextcloud over HTTPS to never get hacked?

 

The only Linux questions community I found appears to be locked, so I hope it's ok to ask here..

For a very long time I've had the issue that occasionally, perhaps 1 out of 40 boots, my mouse does not work once the OS starts. The mouse appears to turn on during POST/BIOS/GRUB, then it goes dark again while the OS is booting, and to make it turn back on I have to crawl under the desk, unplug it and plug it back in. 39 times out of 40 (approximately) it just goes dark briefly and turns on in time for the OS. The mouse also works just fine in UEFI.

This happens in Xubuntu, Fedora and Windows, and with two different mice from different manufacturers. I've also upgraded the motherboard twice and pretty much every component in the computer. The only thing that's always has been there is GRUB, which is why I suspect it could be involved.

It happens so rarely that I never really bothered to try to find a solution for it, but it is kinda annoying when it happens.

 

I'm about to invest in some "prosumer" level 18V power tools, e.g. Makita, Dewalt, Metabo, etc. The general consensus appears to be that they're all more or less equal and it doesn't matter much which brand one goes with, but a few years ago I developed tinnitus which has made me more sensitive to high frequency sounds. And having tested a few cordless drill drivers at various hardware stores I can definitely tell they're not equal when it comes to what the noise sounds like, even if they measure similarly in sound pressure level.

Currently I have a Ryobi 18V brushless that I measure to 83-84 dB(c) at 1m which makes it pretty loud, and it also has a quite a quite high pitched sound which makes it worse. Looking at a spectrogram from a calibrated measurement mic there's a pretty clear peak at 6kHz. The drill drivers I've been looking at all have a rated sound pressure level (Lp) around 76 dB so they should already be noticeably less loud, but I'm hoping to find one without those high frequencies if possible.

I've been able to test a few drills in person and got some initial impressions. Unfortunately the local hardware stores have a pretty limited selection of brands, they don't have all models in the store, and you usually have to bother the staff if you want to try something with batteries in it. At first I thought I could remember my subjective opinion of different drivers, but when I later got the opportunity to re-compare two of them head to head I realised I have really bad memory..

Head-to-head comparisons that I've done:

Makita DDF484 vs Dewalt DCD791: The Makita has a very high frequency whine, kind of like dentist's drill. The Dewalt is probably just as loud, but a little lower pitch making the noise slightly more tolerable, while still not great.

Makita DDF484 vs 485 vs 486: When it comes to high pitched noise, 484 was worst, followed by 485, and the 486 was most tolerable.

Dewalt DCD791 vs DC800: The 800 had a more high pitched noise than the 791, once again reminding me of the dentist's drill.

Not compared with anything, so only subjective impression:

Hikoki (a.k.a. Metabo HPT in USA) DV18DD and Dewalt DCD777: Smaller and weaker tools but much more quiet than everything else. If I were going to buy 2 drill drivers I'd probably get something like these plus one larger for heavier work.

Metabo (the made in Germany, non-HPT, brand) DS 18 LT BL: Only had a quick try with this machine but without having anything to compare it with I thought it sounded pretty reasonably tolerable. There's a version with quick change chucks, unfortunately only the smaller (L) and larger (LTX) models have offset and angle chucks for some reason but that's a feature I would really like to have.

Anyone compared Milwaukee to other brands with respect to noise? The only store I found that sells them said they didn't have any charged batteries so I couldn't try any.

Not exactly sure what I'm expecting from this post, since the question is so subjective.. Perhaps someone with experience of multiple cordless drill drivers could share their opinion? Or someone else with a similar aversion to high pitched noises could say if they found any tool that they're happy with?

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